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February 15, 2011

Vietnam & Cambodia : Siem Reap (Pt3)

Another seven hours bus ride from Pnom Penh to Siem Reap. Soon we were on National Highway 6. Had a short break at Kampong Thom. We only bought kerepek pisang (the only food edible for us). About 7.30pm I saw the sign "Siem Reap Province" by the roadside, which took us about an hour later to reach the town. Along the way, we stumbled upon seven army tanks on the road. I was excited to see the tanks, despite of not knowing what actually happen at the Thai - Cambodia, Preah Vihear. As requested, our tuk-tuk driver waited for our arrival. He hold a paper with my name on it. His name is Panga. In the darkness, he drove his tuk-tuk to Golden Mango Inn. Wann the family owner greeted is with welcome drinks & wet towel. Hand us our room key (106) and brief us about the service & facilities provided by the hostel. Freshen ourself and had dinner at the hostel restaurant.
The Angkor
They are three different passes to enter Angkor. Passes are sold in 1day (USD20), 3day which valid for a week (USD40) & 7day which is valid for a month (USD60) block.You may purchase the pass at the Angkor Wat Conservation Center from 0500 till 1800. As for us, time is short so we decide to purchased the 1day pass. We reached Angkor Wat as early as 5.30am. It was cold & dark. Luckily our tuk tuk driver offer us an extra torchlight (I had my headlamp). Still dark and most of these keen tourist we flocking the very best spot to wait for the sun to rise behind Angkor Wat (silhouette effect at it best). About 0700 the sun finally arises behind Angkor Wat and the view was breathtaking, the same exact view when the Khmer first build Angkor Wat thousand years ago. The water reflection makes it perfect.
We went back to our hostel for breakfast and we decided to cycle around Angkor. We were on a budget and besides the hostel offer free cycle. The roads of Cambodia are almost the same as scary as Vietnam. I had never been this scary while crossing to the other side of the road. My sense of direction is still in shocked mode (traffic comes from your left). Survive the first crossing! The road was less busy until we turn into Charles De Gaulle road. Cycle for about 7km and reached our first destination. 7km and my butt hurts! It has been long since I rode one.


Angkor Wat
I stood in awe looking over the three story massive building made of entirely huge rocks. Im in a dreamy state,believing that I finally foot my step onto the most historic building in the world after which I had been planning since 2007 (the plan has been cancelled since). The weather was perfect blue sky,dry hot! Angkor Wat on its own covers 1kmarea. In one corner, the magnificent carving of ancient war tales tells its story. Inside Angkor Wat, the walkway having high ceiling with huge stones as steps. Surprisingly the stones were cold, and it was breezy. Sanskrit writing are still visible to the naked eye. We spent about an hour here, mesmerized by it scale & the symmetrical of the carvings.
*beware of the kids selling souvenirs, books & drinks. They tend to bug you till you buy something from them.

Bayon
About 1km away (cycling) stood the South Gate with huge human carvings as the bridge railing. The gate is only wide enough for a car to pass through. Then we reached Bayon which is located 2km from Angkor Wat (the road is abit bumpy here). Bayon is known for its huge stone faces of the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara, with one facing outward and keeping watch at each compass point (NSEW). We had our lunch snack here. Luckily we brought sandwiches (tuna mayo & Gardenia bread all the way from KUL!) because none of us had no idea what lunch will look like here in the Angkor. Lunch by the faces of Bayon, before I was attack by an army of huge red ants!
We had to skip the Elephant Terrace and King Leper Terrace due to time constraints. Sugar cane drinks look so tempting under the hot weather. We cycled pass the Victory gate making our way to Ta Keo when suddenly my bike brokedown (the chain slipped out). The situation was saved by Shahrin. Ta Keo located about 3km from Bayon (literally I cant really sits on my butt now). Ta Keo known in its time as the mountain with golden peaks. Suits to its name - mountain, Ta Keo stairs were steep & narrow. Climbing up is easy but not when coming down the huge block of stairs. I decide to just walk up to the 1st floor.


Ta Prohm

Parked our bike and walked about 200m towards Ta Promh. Along the way, you'll be entertain by the groups of mines victims. The famous Ta Promh serves as a shooting set in Tomb Raider movie. Great trees tower above Ta Prohm, may be as wide as an oak tree. You'll need to be there to see how huge those tree were. Wonder how the tree grows wrapping around the building. Ta Prohm is extensively ruined, so the ruins are basically everywhere. Its like a maze. You enter a room at the other end, and you'll end up on the other parts of the temple. Just follow the tourist trail, and you'll be fine. Taking pictures with the amazing background was not an easy task, when you have tourist all over the world flocking into one place.
Its almost 4pm, and its time to go back. Its a long cycle back to our hostel. All three of us manage to complete the rounds, despite of Fifi's initial plan was to hire a tuk-tuk. Give yourself a pat on the shoulder for completing a 27KM rounds in a day with 3 major temple covered!

Shopping & Khmer massage
I only manage to cover the Old Market area while my stay here. I dont do much shopping here as my budget were limited. bargain starts at 25% off the retail price. But definitely we went for a massage. Tips for cheaper massage price is to go between 12noon - 3pm (consider as off-peak time) You may get discount about $1 - $2 from normal price. We had foot massage/body massage + manicure for $7. It was awesome after all the cycling and walking on the day before.
Pub Street (once I told the tuk tuk driver, Temple Street. Silly me!)
Its a stretch of pubs & international cuisine restaurant along Pub street. You can find Mexican, Italian, French, English & Irish pub/restaurant here. If you are looking for Khmer traditional cuisine, explore the alley behind Pub street. We spend three nights just hanging around Pub street (tgk mat salleh mabuk are very entertaining indeed). Drinks are cheap here. For eg: local draught beer during happy hour is selling from USD0.50. Cocktail from USD1.50. Coke and such sold at USD1. For USD5, you could get a decent meal & drinks. One of the pub, the Red Piano is famous for its Tomb Raider Cocktail which was initiated by Angelina Jolie while shooting Tomb Raider back in 2000.

The ride back to Siem Reap international airport are complimentary from our hostel. Unfortunately, i don't get to see our kacak, tampan & macho tuk tuk driver, Panga for the last time before heading back to reality. Our flight REP - KUL is ETD 0835.

USD 8 per night per person in Golden Mango Inn Hostel
USD20 for a one day pass into Angkor
USD11 entry fee into Cambodian Cultural Village
USD2 per tuk tuk each time to get back to hostel from town
USD25 airport tax fee

Part 1 : Saigon
Part 2 : Pnom Penh

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